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Some Things That Your Veterinarian Does During A Typical Pet Examination

Veterinarian Examining a Dog

Looks at your pet or weighs him or her to check for significant weight change.

Examine eyes for cataracts, glaucoma or inflammation.

Examine ears for infection, dirt or discharge.

Check nose for signs of upper respiratory disease.

Evaluate breath and teeth, and check color and condition of gums.

Feel thyroid and lymph nodes for signs of infections or tumors.

Feel abdomen for abnormal tenderness, lumps or masses.

Assess the condition of legs, joints and spine.

Make sure coat is healthy and well groomed, not dry, dull or brittle. Determine if nails need trimming.

Check skin for fleas and ticks, infection, lumps, bumps or other problems.

Listen for heart murmurs, irregular heartbeat and abnormal lung sounds.

Check a stool sample (if necessary) for internal parasites.

Diabetes is a condition caused by a relative resistance to or deficiency of insulin which results in elevated blood glucose levels and glucose in the urine. Diabetes mellitus is most common in older cats; however, neutered cats, male cats and obese cats are at an increased risk of developing this condition. Evidence has shown that genetics may play a role in the development of diabetes in cats. In particular, the Burmese breed has been identified as being predisposed to diabetes, and analysis of pedigrees has suggested that this is an inherited trait.

Insulin is produced by the pancreas and is released into the bloodstream where it travels to all the tissues of the body. Its main role is to enable cells to take up glucose (sugar) which is needed as an energy source.

In diabetic cats, there is a relative or absolute deficiency of insulin. An absolute insulin deficiency may arise as a direct failure of the pancreas to produce insulin. In most diabetic cats, there is both an absolute insulin deficiency and a situation whereby cells of the body fail to respond effectively to the insulin produced. This results in a decreased amount of glucose taken up by the cells and an increase of glucose in the blood (called hyperglycemia). As the cells are starved of glucose, the body begins to break down stored fats and proteins for sources of energy. This process results in weight loss and the accumulation of toxic waste products, which can cause a diabetic crisis known as ketoacidosis.

The symptoms of diabetes may be severe or mild. Due to the increased amount of glucose in the blood, it is excreted in the urine. The glucose that is passed into the urine takes water with it, so an increased volume of urine is produced. To compensate for the water lost to the urine, the cat develops an increased thirst. Weight loss and an increased appetite are also frequently seen.

Usually the client brings the cat to see a veterinarian as a result of the following symptoms:
Weight loss
Increased appetite
Increased urination
Increased water consumption

These signs are not always present or may pass unnoticed. If a cat spends most of his time outdoors, the increased thirst and increased urination may not be noticed by the owner.

There are other clinical signs that may be observed. These include:

• Straining to pass urine or passing bloody urine (associated with a urinary tract infection)
• Poor coat
• Cataracts and retinal abnormalities causing vision problems
• Weakness in hind legs or dropped hocks

Some cats develop ketoacidosis, a potential complication in uncontrolled diabetes. In this situation, the cat may become extremely depressed, with symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, complete loss of appetite, dehydration, collapse and coma. If any of these signs are seen in a diabetic cat, it is an emergency condition and should be taken to a veterinary hospital immediately.

Blood and urine tests are required to confirm a diagnosis of diabetes. The diabetic cat needs to be hospitalized and monitored very closely. The treatment regime is initiated and necessary changes are made. This initial stabilization period usually takes between a few days to a couple of weeks. Some cats will need to be stabilized in-hospital initially, while others can be started as out patients. During this period, several parameters are monitored. Some of these parameters include:

• Weight
• Appetite
• Personality
• Thirst
• Urine Analysis
• Blood glucose measurements

Diabetes mellitus is usually a treatable condition, but requires considerable dedication and commitment from the cat’s owners. Owners of a diabetic cat need to be aware that a strict routine must be followed. The timing of insulin injections is important; however, they initially can be altered to suit the lifestyle of the owner. Once the insulin injections have begun, they need to be given at regular intervals. Knowledge on correct insulin storage, handling and administration is also required. The dose of insulin given should never be changed without consulting your veterinarian. One of the most common reasons for poor stabilization at home is problems with insulin storage and/or administration.

The most life-threatening complication that can occur at home is hypoglycemia (low blood glucose levels). Hypoglycemia can occur if an insulin overdose is given or if the cat has no appetite. The main signs of hypoglycemia are (in order of increasing severity):

• Weakness
• Disorientation
• Staggering
• Strange behavior—aimless wandering, searching for food, licking lips
• Severe neurological signs—collapse, convulsions, loss of consciousness

Ketoacidosis is an uncommon complication of poorly controlled diabetes. It can be rapidly fatal if not treated and is cause for immediate concern. The clinical signs most frequently seen with ketoacidosis are:

• Loss of appetite
• Weakness
• Vomiting/diarrhea
• Dehydration
• Collapse

Initially, all diabetic cats should be seen every one to two weeks in order to assess how well their diabetes is being controlled. It is not uncommon for problems to be seen in the early stages of care. Problems are often related to the storage and administration of insulin; therefore, they are usually quite easy to identify and remedy.

The long-term outlook for cats with diabetes mellitus varies according to how old they are, the ease of stabilizing their diabetes, and whether or not they have any other concurrent disease. Many diabetic cats have an excellent quality of life and can live for many years.

Blood feathers are a completely normal part of your bird's physiological process. Whether your bird is young or old or somewhere in between, they are present throughout its life. As a loving bird owner; however, it is important for you to understand what blood feathers are, how to identify them and what to do if one breaks.

A blood feather is, quite simply, an actively growing feather that contains a blood supply. When a new feather forms in the follicle, the live tissue has a central artery and a vein in order to supply nutrients to the growing feather. Once the feather has grown in completely, the blood vessels shrink and dry up as they are no longer needed by the fully formed feather.

Fairly easy to identify, a blood feather has three main characteristics. One is that the quill or calamus is thicker and softer than a mature feather. The second characteristic is the length of the feather. Blood feathers are shorter than mature feathers since they have not yet grown to their full lengths. Third, and most easily identifiable, is the color of the shaft of the quill. Because there is an active blood supply to the feather, the quill shaft looks dark - maroon, bluish-purple, or black in color - instead of the usual white or clear look of a fully emerged feather.

Blood feathers are normally found on the wings and tail or on the crest of birds like cockatoos. Depending on what molting stage your bird is in dictates where the blood feather is located. Birds usually molt in a particular pattern so that they are always able to fly (whether in the wild or not). Baby birds, for instance, since growing their first set of feathers, have all of their blood feathers at one time all over their bodies. Adult birds may molt up to three times per year depending on the species. The pattern of molting follows an orderly progression. In a complete molt, the sequence usually starts with the inner primaries, continues with the secondaries and tail feathers and then finishes with the body feathers. Not to jeopardize their ability to fly, matched pairs of feathers are usually shed at the same time.

Problems arise with blood feathers when they are cut, broken, or bent. Because the feather has an artery and a vein, a damaged blood feather will bleed, often profusely. Some birds are prone to breaking blood feathers, particularly cockatiels and ring necks. Birds that are nervous, overcrowded in their cage or thrash around are also apt to break blood feathers. Knowing your bird’s habits and peculiarities, if any, can help prevent problems.

If your bird has a bleeding feather, the best way to handle the situation is to pull the feather. Pulling a blood feather is very painful so it is not something you want to do unless absolutely necessary. With that in mind, you need to approach the situation with confidence. If you are uncertain, it is best to contact your veterinarian. If a bleeding feather is not cared for, your bird may bleed to death. A pair of needle-nosed pliers or a pair of hemostats are needed to remove a blood feather. Locate the break, gently grasp the feather near the base of the calamus (close to the body) and pull the feather straight out in the direction in which it is growing. This procedure usually requires two people, one to restrain the bird, preferably with a towel, and one to pull out the broken feather. Broken blood feathers may stop bleeding if left untouched, but as soon as they are bumped, bleeding usually commences. The only permanent solution is to gently, but firmly, pull the feather from its follicle and apply pressure to the follicle area with tissue, gauze, corn starch or Quick-Stop until the bleeding stops. If the bleeding does not stop, or the break is below the follicle, bring your bird to your veterinarian.

When you clip your bird’s wings, make sure you examine each quill and identify each shaft as not being a blood feather before you cut. While cutting, leave the feather on each side of the blood feather long to help support it. Never clip up into the wing coverts which leaves blood feathers unprotected, making them much more apt to break. If you do this each time, you minimize your chances of having a broken blood feather.

Ultimately, your bird will inevitably experience a broken blood feather at some point. It helps to watch your bird carefully when new feathers are coming in and visually inspect your bird daily. Even a quick once over in the morning and at night can help you catch a problem early. Keeping a pair of hemostats, cornstarch and gauze in a first-aid kit especially for your bird also makes handling the situation much easier.

More often than not, dogs are exposed to toxic household products accidentally, though from time to time, well-intentioned owners may unknowingly give their dogs harmful products or medications in an attempt to help them. To help you be a responsible dog owner, we have compiled a list of the 10 most common household hazards to dogs based on data received at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) between 2001 and 2005.

Ibuprofen

Ibuprofen, also known by the name brands Advil or Motrin, is a non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory drug commonly used as a pain reliever or fever reducer. The most common over-the-counter strength is 200mg, but prescription strength tablets can get as high as 800mg. Dogs are often exposed accidentally, either because they have chewed a bottle containing ibuprofen or their owner has given it to them intentionally for pain control.

The effects of ibuprofen poisoning are diverse. An overdose can cause damage to the GI tract, the kidneys and the central nervous system. Ingestion by dogs can lead to ulceration, vomiting, diarrhea and/or abdominal pain. Larger doses can result in an increased risk of a dog developing acute renal failure, depression, seizures and/or comas.

Chocolate

Chocolate contains a stimulant known as a methylxanthine or theobromine. The amount of methylxanthines depends on the type of chocolate. For example, milk chocolate contains lower amounts of methylxanthines than dark chocolate, while baker's chocolate has the highest and most toxic amount.

Clinical signs of chocolate poisoning vary. The dog's reaction depends on the type of chocolate, the amount ingested, the size of the dog, and the dog's sensitivity to methylxanthines. Signs of ingestion can include mild stimulation such as hyperactivity, agitation and restlessness, cardiovascular effects like tachycardia (increased heart rate), arrhythmias, hypertension or hypotension and central nervous system signs such as tremors and seizures. Vomiting and diarrhea may occur with any amount, due to chocolate's high fat and sugar content.

Ant and Roach Baits

No one likes having ants or roaches in the house, but it is important to remember the potential hazard to your dog by placing baits or traps. The product names vary, and the containers may be referred to as chambers, discs, stations, systems, traps, baits or trays. To attract the insects, most ant and roach baits use an attractant (often peanut butter), a sweetening agent and bread. These baits once contained compounds highly toxic to mammals (arsenic trioxide and lead arsenate); the most common insecticides used in ant and roach baits today are boric acid, avermectin, fipronil, hydramethylnon, propoxur and sulfonamide.

Due to the low concentration of the insecticide and the small size of the bait, serious illness in dogs ingesting the baits is not expected. In many instances, the risk of a foreign body or obstruction from the plastic or metal part of the container is of greater concern than the active ingredients. Signs of ingestion are usually limited to mild gastrointestinal upset and do not require specific treatment.

Rodenticides (rat poison)

Poisons intended to kill rats, mice, gophers, moles and other pesky mammals are among the most common and deadly household poisons. Since rodents and dogs are both mammals, it makes sense that substances highly poisonous to mice, for example, would be lethal to dogs. It cannot be stressed enough that rodenticides are highly toxic and any such poisons designed to kill small mammals need to be carefully stored away from curious canine noses. The poisons usually come in flimsy cardboard containers, and any dog or puppy can chew through it to get the bait.

While there are many categories of rodenticides, the most common poisoning seen in veterinary practice is the anti-coagulant kind. Anti-coagulant rodenticide has ingredient names like warfarin, fumarin, diphacinone and bromadiolone. These poisons act by interfering with a dog's ability to utilize Vitamin K. Without it, a dog's blood is unable to clot, which can ultimately cause severe blood loss, anemia, hemorrhage and death. Generally, clinical signs are not seen until 3-5 days after the dog has ingested the poison. Signs of ingestion are weakness, difficulty breathing, pale mucous membranes, bruising and bleeding from the nose. Other types of rodenticides can cause neurological symptoms such as incoordination, seizures and other cardiac failure.

If accidental ingestion of rat poison is suspected, contact your veterinarian immediately, even if your dog is not showing any symptoms. If possible bring the poison container to the clinic to determine the specific rodenticide ingested and therefore provide the best treatment. Early recognition is critical, as some intoxications can be treated successfully if caught early and treated appropriately.

Acetaminophen

Acetaminophen, most commonly known as Tylenol, is an over-the-counter medication used to relieve pain and reduce fevers. Available in tablets, capsules or liquids, it can be rather easy for a dog to chew on a bottle or mistakenly be given some by its owner as a pain killer. As with ibuprofen, dogs should never be given acetaminophen as a pain reliever. Specifically, acetaminophen breaks down into small particles that bind to red blood cells and other tissue cells. This results in the destruction of these cells. In other words, just one pill can cause significant tissue damage in dogs (especially small dogs). Signs of ingestion develop quickly and can include salivation, vomiting, weakness, abdominal pain and fluid build up (edema) in the face or paws.

Cold medications (Pseudo-ephedrine)

Many cold medications contain pseudo-ephedrine, a drug structurally similar to amphetamine. Ingestion can lead to cardiovascular and central nervous system problems. The most common clinical signs include agitation, hyperactivity, panting, hyperthermia (increased body temperature), tachycardia, head bobbing and dilated pupils. A small amount can be life threatening, so timely treatment is important.

Thyroid hormones

Thyroid hormones can be toxic to dogs. Although natural (desiccated thyroid) and synthetic (levothyroxine or L-thyroxine) derivatives of thyroid hormones are used to treat hypothyroidism in both animals and people, an overdose can be toxic. As with any medication, dogs are susceptible to drug overdoses, much like humans. Hyperactivity and tachycardia are the most common signs of overdose. If you think you have overdosed your dog or your own medication bottle has been chewed, consult your veterinarian for the best course of action.

Cleaning Products

This category contains dozens of products used around the home including toilet bowl cleaners, bleach, detergents, caustics (e.g. Drano, Ajax, etc.), pine oils and so forth. These products are often highly poisonous to dogs. The range of chemicals included in cleaning products can cause signs varying widely from mild local irritation (many detergent soaps) to deep penetrating tissue damage (alkaline products) to severe systemic disease (pine oils). Due to the wide range of products, generalized illness is most common along with skin irritation or a burn if contact has been topical instead of ingested. Like rodenticides, it is wise to keep all cleaners tightly closed when not in use and stored in a location where curious canine noses are unable to reach. Also, be sure to keep dogs out of newly cleaned areas to avoid paw injuries from walking in the cleaning solution and mouth burns from subsequent grooming.

Fertilizer

Spring and fall are the times to fertilize. Unfortunately, it is also the time for accidental poisoning. Dogs often lick their paws, especially after walking outdoors. Because fertilizers are usually a combination of ingredients, several toxic outcomes are possible. In general, the ingredients are poorly absorbed and most clinical signs are related to gastrointestinal irritation showing up as vomiting, hyper salivation, diarrhea or lethargy. The best way to avoid illness or injury is to keep your dog inside while treating your lawn and wait awhile before letting him or her out.

Household Chemicals (hydrocarbons)

Hydrocarbons are in numerous household products, including paints, varnishes, engine cleaners, furniture polish, lighter fluid, lamp oils, paint removers, and fuel oil (e.g. acetone, xylene, kerosene, gasoline, naphtha, mineral oil). Since there are so many possible poisons, the result of ingestion varies widely. Clinical signs include vomiting, diarrhea, mild to moderate eye irritation, skin burns, pulmonary damage, pneumonia, depression or excitement, hypoxia, inflammation and liver or kidney damage. Though dogs generally do not enjoy the taste of any of these products, a common cause of ingestion is through drinking out of puddles that contain chemicals or walking through spilled liquids and then licking their paws.

Your dog always seems to know the difference between a ride to the dog park and a ride to the veterinarian's and understands dozens of different commands (though not necessarily always when you want him or her to do so), but just how smart is your pooch? According to a Canadian professor, your furry friend is just as smart as a 2-year-old child.

A dog's intelligence is on par with a 2-year-old child, according to Professor Stanley Coren.

Dogs have the same developmental abilities "equivalent to a human 2-year-old," said Stanley Coren, a professor emeritus of psychology at the University of British Columbia and the author of "How to Speak Dog" and "How Dogs Think," as well as a number of other books. Coren presented his findings earlier this month at the annual meeting of the American Psychological Association in Toronto.

According to Coren, the average dog can lean to understand about 165 words and can count up to four or five. Dogs can also experience fear, anger and happiness, but do not feel guilt - characteristics similar to a human toddler, Coren said. They can be sneaky, too: Coren said that dogs are capable of intentionally deceiving other dogs and people in order to get treats they want.

While all dogs can learn new tricks, not all dogs are created equal, according to Coren. Using data from more than 200 dog obedience judges in the United States and Canada, Coren ranked a number of dog breeds based on their intelligence. The Border Collie sits at the top of the list, followed closely by Poodles, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers and Dobermans. The Afghan Hound is ranked at the bottom of the list of 100 breeds.

Border Collies are ranked as one of the smartest dog breeds.

On his blog, Coren writes that dogs possess different varieties of intelligence. Instinctive intelligence refers to the skills dogs were bred for (herding dogs, etc.); adaptive intelligence is a measure of what a dog can learn to do for him or herself, and working and obedience intelligence covers skills learned by "working dogs" such as police dogs or guide dogs.

But Coren is quick to note that intelligence isn't always an indicator of personality and that the smarter the dog, the greater the chance for mischief: "While a smart dog will learn everything that you want it to know, it will also learn everything that it can get away with," Coren writes. More importantly, intelligence has no bearing on a dog's companionship; your dog's breed may not be at the top of the smartest-breeds list, but that doesn't make his or her friendship any less valuable.

On July 30, Procter & Gamble Pet Care division expanded its July 25 pet food recall to include additional veterinary formulas and some specialized Eukanuba dry pet food products as a precautionary measure. The original recall, just five days earlier, involved Iams feline renal dry food formulas. Although no illnesses have been reported, the possibility of salmonella contamination prompted P&G to recall the following dry pet food brands:

-- Iams Veterinary Dry Formulas: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Naturally Wild: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Pure: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Custom Care Sensitive Skin: All dry sizes, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

These products are manufactured in one specialized facility where testing by the Food and Drug Administration detected salmonella. As a precaution, P&G is recalling the products voluntarily in cooperation with the FDA. The contamination is limited to this facility, but affects all the products listed above.

Consumers who purchased the specific dry pet foods listed should discard them. People handling dry pet food can become infected with salmonella, especially if they have not thoroughly washed their hands after touching the products or containers. Salmonella can also be transferred to surfaces in contact with the products.

Pets infected with salmonella may have decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. Left untreated, pets may become lethargic and develop diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Even healthy pets can become carriers and infect other animals or humans.

Consumers may receive product refunds by calling Procter & Gamble toll-free at 877-340-8823.

Native to Australia, the bearded dragon is quickly becoming one of the most popular exotic pets worldwide. This interesting animal gets its name from the ability to extend the skin under the neck in a beard-like fashion. The bearded dragon has become a favorite pet due to its tame personality and ease of handling.

Selecting your Bearded Dragon

A healthy animal has clear and bright eyes. When they are not basking in the warmth of the sun or sleeping, the bearded dragon keeps the front portion of its body slightly elevated. If the dragon simply lies about and does not seem active, this can indicate poor health. Hold the animal to get an idea of its weight and muscle tone. Healthy dragons have round bodies and tails. The limbs should be free from swellings and the skin should look healthy and free of parasites.

Environment

A bearded dragon’s environment should range between 80-85 degrees F. You should also provide a small area at 95 degrees F. where the animal can bask. It’s good to invest in a good thermometer in order to maintain these optimal temperatures.

Feeding

The standard diet for a bearded dragons is crickets, mealworms, and juvenile mice. Mealworms should comprise up to thirty percent of the total diet and crickets should be fed every two days. To insure proper nutrition, a vitamin supplement is included twice. The water bowl needs to be washed daily with soap and water and clean fresh water is given daily.

Health

Internal Parasites - Runny stools or sudden weight loss can indicate internal parasites (worms). Other diseases can mimic parasitic infections so it is best to consult your veterinarian if your dragon seems to have a problem.

External Parasites (Mites) - If detected, mites should be removed with tweezers and cleaned with alcohol. Make sure to not leave the head behind as they can cause skin infections.

Every day, observe your dragon for at least 15 minutes. If you notice the slightest change in behavior or eating habits take your pet to a veterinarian for an examination. If you do not have a veterinarian, it’s best to look for one who has experience with reptiles.

You will need to have the following items on hand before bringing home your new kitten:

A litterbox that is the right size for the age of the kitten. Avoid boxes that are too deep and thus might be difficult for your new kitten to climb into.

Litter for the litterbox - you may be surprised at how picky some kittens can be. Some cats prefer the very fine grain litter and some prefer the coarser types. Don't give up if your kitten does not seem pleased at first. Most kittens will definitely let you know when you have hit upon the right mixture. The breeder can let you know what the kitten is used to.

Scratching Posts (or some type of cat furniture) - They are invaluable in training your kitten to avoid harming your furniture. Scratching their claws is a healthy, natural instinct for cats, and providing them with the right place to do that will keep you and your kitten happy. Be aware that some cats prefer rough surfaces like sisal rope white others go crazy for plain old carpet (the kind on your floor, if you don't have a scratching post!).

Grooming Tools suitable for the breed of your kitten - A brush and comb are indispensable for a long-haired kitten/cat, or a flea comb or special brush for short-haired cats. You'll also need clippers for their nails (human nail clippers are not recommended). Purchase clippers made especially for cats. These can be found in most quality pet stores. Trimming the nails is an important part of feline grooming. We also recommend discussing teeth brushing with your veterinarian. This requires a special toothbrush and toothpaste.

Food and Water Bowls - Believe it or not, there is a difference even in the type of food and water bowls you provide for your kitten! Certain types of plastic, wood, and even some types of ceramic bowls may contain tiny cracks that can harbor potentially harmful bacteria. Most professionals recommend using glass and stainless steel food and water bowls. These bowls should be cleaned regularly (the dishwasher is great). Make sure the bowls are not too high for your kitten to reach.

TOYS, TOYS, TOYS - Just as human babies love to play, so do kittens. It is their survival instinct and throughout their lives, kittens and cats emulate hunting in their play. Providing them with suitable toys helps to ensure they fulfill this need. You will need to be very selective in the type of toys as kittens do love to chew and nibble. Avoid purchasing toys with small strings or beads that can be swallowed easily. Toys don't have to be expensive to be appreciated by kittens and cats.

Cat Carrier (Pet Taxi) - You'll need to have a carrier for safely traveling with your kitten, as well as trips to the vet. There is also a new "Pet Seat" available, which secures your kitten/cat (up to 30 pounds) in your car, allowing for more interaction between you and your kitty.

Food - Check with the breeder or veterinarian to be sure you have the proper food on hand. Changes in diet and water, even litter and environment, can cause minor diarrhea and other problems. It doesn't hurt to pick up a few bottles of Pedialyte liquid to keep in the cupboard in case of diarrhea and/or dehydration.

Bedding - A nice cozy bed is a great idea for the new member of the family. Your kitten will soon know that this is her/his special place. Choose a bed that is well constructed and one that is machine washable.

As the daylight hours increase or decrease (during the fall and spring) pet ferrets naturally begin shedding their fur. Like cats, these sleek little animals spend quite a bit of time grooming themselves, thus ingesting quite a bit of their own fur.

Due to the ingestion of fur, hairballs can be a significant problem for pet ferrets, even to the point of being fatal. The ingested fur can accumulate in the animal's intestine causing intestinal impaction and blockage. Symptoms of a blocked intestine include lack of bowel movements, decreased activity, lack of appetite and vomiting.

Since ferrets enjoy grooming themselves, it's important to be aware of the potential for hairballs. By regularly administering a laxative, hairballs can be prevented. There are several brands of petroleum-based laxatives considered safe for ferrets, including Ferret-lax, Laxatone and Cat lax. Usually the little furry animal enjoys the taste, so the laxative can be licked off a finger, a spoon or directly from the tube. During shedding season, a little bit should be given every day. Outside shedding season, the laxative should be administered weekly.

Lyme disease, an illness that is transmitted by hard-bodied ticks such as the deer tick, is a serious disease affecting humans and pets across the country. While being around ticks may be hard to avoid, there are many things you can do to prevent Lyme disease from becoming a debilitating disorder for you and your pets.

Although Lyme disease has been diagnosed in people in all 50 states, over 80 percent of human cases have occurred in the eastern states from Massachusetts to Virginia. The disease was named after Lyme, Connecticut, where the first human cases occurred in 1975. Ticks obtain the disease from the mammals they feed on, which include rodents and deer, and pass it on to humans and other animals, such as dogs, through a bite. Symptoms of the disease in humans include a rash and / or symptoms of the flu, followed by joint pain and possible arthritis.

Pets handle the disease differently, however. For example, canines will not show signs of the disease for several weeks or months after infection. If it is caught early, they will respond quickly to a round of antibiotics. Symptoms in dogs include arthritis and occasional fever. If undiagnosed for a long period of time, dogs can develop glomerular disease, a type of kidney damage caused by overstimulation of the immune system by an infectious organism.

Similarly, the methods for prevention of infection differ for humans and animals. A vaccine exists for dogs, which should be boostered annually. It is also advisable to avoid tick-infested areas, if possible. Use of a tick collar or monthly topical preventative such as Frontline Plus, K9 Advantix or other similar product and careful examination of your pet after she or he has been in an area that ticks may be present are additional ways to prevent Lyme disease in your dog.

While the FDA approved a human vaccine in 1998, it was removed from the market in 2002 due to poor sales, according to the Winter 2001 / Spring 2002 issue of “The Lyme Times” (a publication of the Lyme Disease Research Center). The Centers for Disease Control recommends that people follow these guidelines to avoid or prevent ticks from biting:

• Use a repellent with DEET on skin or clothing or permethrin on clothing and wear long sleeves, long pants and socks. Do not allow children to apply repellants with DEET themselves.
• Wear light-colored clothing, so that you can see ticks if they are crawling on your clothing.
• Tuck your pant legs into your socks so that ticks cannot crawl up your legs.
• Examine yourself for ticks after being outdoors and remove any ticks you find.

Being outdoors is a fun way to spend time with your family and pets, and it also gives your pet the exercise he or she needs for a healthy lifestyle. Following these guidelines can help safeguard the people and animals in your life, ensuring fun and good times for all.